Hello There, hope you’ve had a great week and are ready to start sewing on our Eden’s.?
If your following on Instagram you can also see video tips here
As a recap, you should now have all your pattern pieces cut from your outer main fabric, pattern pieces from your lining(s) and then your interfacing pieces, which should be fused to their relevant sections. Double check each pattern piece and ensure that you have marked all your notches.
The Objective of this session is to prepare and attach storm flaps, pockets, and assemble the main coat shell! Wow, yes you are going to have a basic coat shell by the end of the session and what seems like a mountain of cut pieces are going to be drastically reduced.
I have found that by batching small processes such as pinning, seam sewing, turning and pressing can speed your process up considerably.
It also allows you to work in short bursts if time is an issue for you. Each of these weekly sessions are based on a 3 1/4 hour workshop; but life doesn’t always afford us such time luxuries does it!, so by working this way, say in 10 -20 min chunks, can allow us to progress with small bursts such as ‘ just pinning a batch of items in a morning, then stitching them later that afternoon, pressing whilst the tea is cooking etc.
So however you wish to work – take you storm flap front and back along with the pocket flaps and place right sides together, pin/clip them together then stitch – seam allowances are all 5/8″ 1.5cm. To ensure you get a smooth curve work slowly around the curve, work in small increments, keep the needle in the down position and lift presser foot regularly to ease around.
Reduce the seam allowance by trimming to 1/4 inch/ 6mm – Tip: if you use pinking shears, these will automatically notch the curves, making is nice and easy to turn right side out and leave a beautiful smooth curve.
Once turned to right side press, use a pressing cloth to protect to PU fabric. Tip: using the curved end of a corner-edge-turner whilst the fabric is warm will also help smooth the curved edges of each piece.
Using a tailors clapper will also help and leave you with uber flat sharp edges.
Baste the raw edges together to prevent slippage and then top stitch around all stitched edges using a stitch length of 3 or 3.5 keeping it roughly a scant 1/4″ 5mm from fold edge ( if your machine has the facility to move the needle over in increments, then set it at potion 7.0- if it doesn’t that last sentence probably may-as well be written in Mandarin!)
Creating the pleated pockets
Tip: snip the top of each pleat line and the raised point in the middle- working from the right side of fabric , put the two lined notches together ( wrong side of fabric will now be touching –
fold the raised point crease towards the centre of the pocket –
Repeat on the other side- the top of the edge of the pocket should now be straight
Baste the pleats into place
Place the lining right sides together, stitch around the edge leaving the turning gap at the bottom of the pocket – Trim seam allowance to 1/4″ 6mm using your pinking shears
Tip: now baste the turning gap together – yes that’s right baste it together to close! the reason for this is that we can now press the seam allowance of the opening section open .
Now whip out those basting stitches, turn the right side out and those pressed edges will give you a nicer folded edge when you tuck them in! ?
Give the pocket a press and get ready to place into position on the front of jacket. Tip: I found it easier to draw a line between the dot markings, this makes it easier to keep the pocket edges nice and straight.
Stitch the pockets into place using the same top stitch length and needle position as before – * You could twin needle if you wishes or do a double row of stitching. For the pocket flap , line this up with the dots/ drawn line above the pocket, with the curved edge facing upwards – stitch across using a 3/8 “/1cm seam and secure each end.
Trim the seam allowance down to 1.4″ 6mm press the flap into position and top stitch down into place which will seal the raw edge.
YASS- that’s a bit of awesome sewing to get those pocket on into place- Next up is stay stitching the raglan arm shaping.The front, back and sleeve area is pretty steep and through its natural shape is naturally travelling through the bias of the fabric, meaning that it potentially can stretch out of shape easily. To stabilise this areas we simply run a row of stitching (normal stitch length) along the length of these keeping inside the 5/8th 1.5cm stitch line
Oooh the exciting bit now it’s now going to start taking shape – lay your storm flaps on the corresponding front and back – Baste into position
Coat fronts with storm flaps in situLine up the sleeves with the back matching notches – Sew into place. You will be sewing through four layers of fabric which may feel a little bulky. Trim the layers so they are graded which will make the seams feel and look much less bulky. Repeat with the front sleeves to left and right front.
Tip: When grading I love to use my applique/ duck billed scissors, they are lovely and sharp plus the special shaping of the blade reduces the chance of catching the main fabric! phew. The rule of thumb for grading is to trim /grade the seams that are not laying against the body of the coat, so think about which way you are pressing the seam towards. The widest seam allowance should be the one that sits closest to the right side of your garment, hiding the staggered seam allowances you created underneath.
You should now feel like a Super Hero… having your coat front and back attached by the sleeves ! My ladies got as far as attaching the backs, creating Super Hero Capes!
Give your self an enormous pat on the back and pour your self a drink of choice to congratulate your progress.
Have a great week, huge thanks for joining us on this journey,
Till Next Week xxx